A love letter to Carmel by the Sea
- 5 hours ago
- 5 min read
My favorite place in California is a charming coastal town up north — a place where houses and shops reside in Tudor storybook cottages, with Dutch doors and Spanish style balconies, names instead of addresses and where dogs are welcome almost everywhere. It's a place reminiscent of Europe's most idyllic countryside towns yet only a five hour drive from Los Angeles. And I've been in love with it ever since my first long weekend here almost a decade ago, this time returning with my 5 year old son and husband.
Perhaps I love it so much because I've always wanted to visit the English countryside, as any millennial woman would who grew up on Nancy Meyer's The Holiday. It's one of my absolute favorite movies featuring two of arguably the most enviable locales to call home. I've already accomplished Los Angeles, now a charming cottage in Cotswolds is next, not just for its quaint towns and elevated country living, but for the way it makes me feel as I watch Cameron Diaz's character bask in a cast iron silver soaking tub after checking out with all the goodies at the local market, enough cheese and chocolates for a cocktail party, yet intended entirely for her own enjoyment. Her character represents success — financial independence and the power of what it brings as a childless, single woman — a first class flight to England to spend the holidays on her own terms.
Nestled into the rugged coastline of California's Carmel Valley, Carmel by the Sea boasts an easy walk to arguably one of the most beautiful beaches on the west coast. It's small and serene with its fine white sand and wide reaching cypress trees that always tend to make the perfect sunset picnic bench. Every time I arrive all I can think about is how easy it would be to spend the entire afternoon here. Chomping on snacks from the local cheese shop, no stress about parking and traffic getting home. It's a completely different beach experience than I have at home or anywhere else really — it's small and cozy, no promenade, tourists or pressure to get your day's worth of schlepping chairs and beach toys. The beach here feels built into the lifestyle, a simple walk from town and a welcoming atmosphere once you arrive.
I came for Carmel by the Sea and received yet a true transport to the misty coasts of Great Britain, the holiday house swap I didn't quite know I needed.
The trees offer a natural shade as does the common fog, the temperatures are leveled or even chilly solving the endless mystery that is practical, yet chic, beachwear made easy. I just love a sweater over a bikini, or to skip the bikini altogether quite frankly. The weather here is somewhat on par with its English style surroundings, mainly foggy and cooler in the summer, the sunniest days peaking end of August and lasting through October. As much as I love a bright morning, sunny afternoon, golden hour end to the day, the fog almost acted as some odd permission, allowing me to pause on vacation. Truly relax in the contrast of a typical day in LA and to be honest, not chase the light during vacation. This time around it truly remained a gift, the second version of Euro summer I was craving, a slower paced and cozier way to ring in my 37th birthday.
A good holiday destination is like fine wine, it should only grow richer with time — look at me swapping 'vacation' for 'holiday' — Nancy Meyers, please move me to the Cotswolds immediately! A Provençal lunch à la mas, a Scottish bagpiper aperitif, sheep-side dinner at dusk — Carmel you must have understood the assignment. A destination I already loved for the European charm, but truly transported me this time somewhere else I didn't think I could go without a passport. All of it made more special by the calm the weather created. Allowing me to see a common Californian destination in an entirely new light, or less light if you will.
Perhaps you were even searching for extra credit this time around. Offering me something new and perhaps a test of loyalty — will she still love me without that California sunshine? — but Carmel you passed with flying colors. I got to be Cameron Diaz and let go of the hustle of Los Angeles, a change of pace I didn't know I needed on this level. All of it made more special given Arthur and I's last time here was with another chunky bébé, the more French kind if you know what I mean...
Parker seemed to love his first trip here too — staying in the heart of town, a walk to the Cottage of Sweets and a wide grassy park simply a stone's throw from our suite. He loved the organic farmstand on the drive in because it wasn't just a stop for lunch, boasting a cute market and idyllic play areas for him to run around after a long car ride, pick berries and play in the large tent. It was so satisfying to see him enjoy this vacation, in the same vein as bringing Pierre (aka Piggy) here all those years back. Arthur and I wanted him to have fun and be welcomed as part of the vacation, smell new things, enjoy the beach. Things he could do in Los Angeles, but they often proved a logistical challenge — he almost overheated on a summer drive back from Malibu. We wanted to take him to dinner and cuddle by the fireplace, and Parker's happiness was deeply connected to our own. That's exactly how it feels to be Parker's parents, we bring him on vacation not to ease the logistics for ourselves (because it won't) instead seeing him experience joy is now our joy. Watching him grow makes us the most fulfilled. There's no longer an us without including him.
The fog almost acted as some odd permission, allowing me to pause on vacation. Truly relax in the contrast of a typical day in LA.
And including Parker, our curious 5-year-old, prompted a visit to the nearby Monterey Bay Aquarium this time around. Perhaps what every parent chose to do that misty morning. But despite the interruption to our slow paced vacation, we managed a pizza lunch al fresco in one of Carmel's charming courtyards, a feature I love most about this town, similar to the vias of Palm Beach. I could easily spend an entire afternoon here pursuing the art galleries and hidden passageways tucked behind each quaint and addressed street. Feeling cozy and cultured all at the same time. Which I did while the boys watched a movie back at the hotel that afternoon. Popping into a few shops, contemplating a warm latte and what purchasing a home abroad in Provence or Lake Como or the Cotswolds would actually entail.
I see now why Nancy Meyers actually created the storyline around the two different destinations, because perhaps one cannot exist in such high merit without the other. Living with nonstop sunshine, glamour and the buzz of Los Angeles perhaps creates my desire for the slowness and coziness Carmel by the Sea offers. Hence why Cameron Diaz was eager to escape her life in LA and in turn, Kate Winslet needed some sunshine and the relics of old Hollywood to bring her back to life. It's the duality of environment that perhaps dictates one's concept of a vacation.
I needed this reset, in the midst of summer transitioning into fall, school emails loading and the holidays on the horizon. An imperfect pause, as one does need some stroke of sun for better photos. And that's exactly what I got, blurrier, fog laden photos while I sipped a warm latte by the firepit and stole a few of his french fries as the bagpiper marched. Sans sunset on the Spanish Bay, a first for my now 5th trip here. I came for Carmel by the Sea and received yet a true transport to the misty coasts of Great Britain, the holiday house swap I didn't quite know I needed.
Happy birthday to me.
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