City Guide:Carmel by the Sea

Carmel by the Sea is my absolute favorite place in California. I fell in love with it the first time I went — the charming streets, cozy hotels, restaurants and cottages. Carmel evokes the quaintness of a small European town, the storybook aesthetic from fairytales, yet also the polish of a major metropolis-level food scene. It's my favorite kind of glamour, rustic and chic. Here's everything I love and would recommend for your next trip, fresh off my now fifth visit here up North.

Where to Stay

La Playa Hotel // The most obvious choice is nestled a short walk into town, nearer to the beach and all around the most resort-like amenities without losing its charm. A Spanish-style Mediterranean villa with a full bar and food menu, champagne breakfast and chic pool. This is the closest you will get to balancing the aesthetic and luxury in Carmel by the Sea proper, which is important to me because half the fun of being here is the picturesque walkability.

Cypress Inn // My favorite stay is here in this smaller version of La Playa, anchoring you right in the heart of Carmel by the Sea. The storied property is famous, with a regal facade to match. Pulling up I always feel like I'm in a scene from a 90s Nancy Meyers movie. The rooms are cozy, not exactly updated but for me that is part of the charm. They also have a nice patio for brunch and a great little bar for happy hour. It's a charming spot with more character and fewer resort-like amenities, but it's what I have come to expect when I stay in Carmel.

Le Petit Pali // This new hotel chain has really done a great job in all its locations, especially lovely in Carmel. The location is right at the very end of town, but the decor is perfectly cottagecore and cozy, with a modern spin and completely updated facilities.

L'Auberge Carmel // The only true five-star hotel in Carmel-by-the-Sea proper, and a stone's throw away from everything in town. It's the most luxurious stay and my pick for a romantic couples getaway.

Carmel Valley Ranch // A true resort experience and perfect for families. With 500 acres, a farm, spa and family programming, it's fit for anyone looking for a retreat with the nearby town as an added bonus.

Mission Ranch Inn // Its truly rustic cottages are only a 20-minute walk from town, with views of sheep outside your window, a quaint restaurant and bar to match. It's a bit of peace and quiet, with tennis and ocean views!

Pebble Beach Resorts // This is golf heaven. A country club-style stay a short drive from town with three different properties to choose from. Perfect for any golfers who've dreamed of playing Pebble Beach or Spanish Bay.

Hotel Links

Where to Eat

La Bicyclette // Perhaps my favorite of them all, the French-leaning, European-inspired dishes are always excellent. The interior is so charming; this most recent trip we were seated in the little Provençal house and my son loved it. The vibes are always good and reservations are in high demand, perfect for lunch, brunch or dinner.

Dametra Cafe // A fun Greek spot for lunch that gets lively at dinner with music and dancing as you dine. The most upbeat place for dinner in all of Carmel.

Casanova // Romantic, cozy and will impress any foodie and well-read wine connoisseur. I love the rustic-chic environment and the menu is consistently good. French and Italian, delicious!

Little Napoli // Perfect spot for pizza, but only worth going if the courtyard is available. Red bistro chairs, ivy-adorned walls and a Vespa parked out front — the whole family will be pleased.

Grasings Restaurant // Twinkling lights on the ivy-covered courtyard, an excellent wine list and consistently delicious American steak and seafood. Reminds me of the pretty courtyards that would appear in Chicago come summer. Also dog-friendly!

Stationæry // Perfect for brunch with a reliable menu that's fresh. A more modern setting but great variety in California cuisine. The lobster roll is overpriced but immaculate!

L'Escargot // My favorite spot for simple French cuisine in the most charming of settings. Especially lovely in summer or fall, especially if you're lucky enough to eat al fresco.

Treehouse Cafe // Cute terrace lunch spot amongst the trees. It's easy and elevated with a full bar.

Mission Ranch Restaurant // A perfect spot for a chilly afternoon and sunset over the sheep-laden field. The menu is simple and the view is perfectly rustic, also perfect for drinks. They don't accept reservations, so come early to snag a good seat and walk the grounds with a glass of something while you wait.

Anton & Michel // The most elegant old-lady-chic spot in Carmel! Delicious California and pan-European-style cuisine served in a charming fountain courtyard. Always beautifully decorated and stunning for a chic lunch or dinner.

Portabella // I love coming here for a cute lunch, set right on Ocean Avenue in the heart of town. A charming little cottage serving Italian food that is always reliable and very cozy.

Hog's Breath Inn // A Carmel classic, reminds me of a British pub in the country with fire pits and a laid-back menu.

Lunch and Dinner Links

What to do

Stroll and Shop // I personally just love to walk and wander whenever I am here. Getting lost amongst the storybook cottages in the residential areas, or finding secret courtyards, shops and alleys with a coffee in hand. Some of my favorite spots are Paloosh, Foxy Couture Vintage, Girl Boy Girl, Alchemy Works Sea Shop, Owl & Kitty Cat Vintage, Somewhere in Carmel and Roberston's Antiques.

The Beach // It's easy to get to from town—short and picturesque. You can easily grab sandwiches from 5th ave deli or a platter of goodies from the cheese shop for an impromptu picnic any afternoon or sunset.

Pebble Beach // Boasting a life-changing golf experience, exceptional views for a cocktail and meal at The Lodge, or a daily sunset bagpiper at Spanish Bay with first come, first serve firepits for a perfect aperitif any night.

Refuge Spa // An oasis for a relaxing afternoon and massages.

Wine Tasting // Folktale Winery is a hit for a full experience, but Carmel by the Sea has a bunch of small tasting rooms. The best one I have found is Wrath Wines.

17-Mile Drive // Some of the most scenic overlooks, beaches and hikes in the region, also home to Pebble Beach and the Lone Cypress Tree. More beautiful with the top down!

What to do (with kids)

Earthbound Farm Stand // A perfect way to spend lunch with organic meals, coffee and produce. A children's garden, flower shop, you-pick berries and lawn games make an afternoon out of it. Kids will love it.

Monterey Bay Aquarium // About 15 minutes from town and perfect for entertaining little ones on a rainy day.

Dennis The Menace Playground // Located about ten minutes from town, but worth a stop to help get some energy out or spend the morning with kids. They have a rock climbing wall, maze and old train in addition to some impressive play structures for little ones.

Alpaca Walking // Only for kids 12 and up, but a fun way to connect with animals for older kids and adults too.

Links for things to do

Coffee and More...

Carmel Coffee House // Not to be confused with Carmel Valley Roasting Co., this spot is tucked away in a charming courtyard and has the best ambiance in my opinion.

Mad Dogs & Englishman // A more hip spot for lattes and delicious pastries. Inside but super cute and worth the hype.

Carmel Bakery // It looks touristy and it is, but it remains the best spot for pastries or anything sweet in town. Perfect for a post-dinner sweet treat. The line can be long in the morning!

Cottage of Sweets // Known for their classic English toffee in an adorable little cottage right in the center of town. I love the chocolate truffle selection; beware—kids won't want to leave empty-handed!

The Cheese Shop // Best selection of cheeses and all the accoutrements you could want to go with them, including some great wines to pair. Perfect for a little beach picnic!

Wrath Wines // Premier wines and tastings!

Coffee & Specialty Links

What to Wear

Carmel is a coastal town in Northern California, so even on a sunny day a chill remains. I recommend layering with knits and jackets that can break the wind or handle a light rain. Think English countryside in autumn. Here are some things I'd bring.