Forte dei Marmi: Italy's Secret Beach

12 minutes ago

6 min read

We've all become familiar with some of Italy's most fabulous beach towns: Capri, Positano and the Amalfi Coast have been front and center when we think of La Dolce Vita summer. In the south we have the islands of Ischia, Sardegna and Sicily which are quickly absorbing the Amalfi overflow. In the north we have the Ligurian coast of Santa Margherita and Portofino, still relatively less known but still frequented by many Americans at least as a cruise line stop. Lake Como isn't quite the beach vacation Americans expect but remains a very popular spot for tourism ever since George Clooney purchased his villa in Laglio.

And while I do consider Lake Como my favorite place in Italy, the elegant beach town none of us have been marketed remains a rare gem in a country whose coastlines have become overrun with tourists. I have now familiarized myself with the actual Hamptons of Italy. A small retreat for fashionable Italians from Milan and Tuscany, and unlike the Hamptons, not yet spoiled by its elite reputation.

The chic little beach town I am referring to is Forte dei Marmi, which translates to "Fort of the Marbles" and actually lives up to its name. With pristine marble stone-embellished streets, pastel shutters, and basket-adorned bicycles in motion on every corner, Forte dei Marmi feels like an Italian country club at the beach. Unlike most of the dramatic cliffsides and bougie beach clubs along the coastlines we see on social media, everything here has polish.

Because the infrastructure is built for the families who return every weekend of summer, stay for the month of August and have a standing cabana reservation near the water at their bagno (beach club) of choice. The streets are built for comfort and ease, family-friendly but fashionable. Every designer takes residence here and every boutique has a sharp eye, given most of its fashion-forward guests are coming from Milan, the fashion capital of Italy, just two hours from the coast.

Its clientele isn't looking for a week of la dolce vita; they are returning to la dolce far niente—my favorite Italian phrase. The sweetness of doing nothing.

My mother and I came here during our Italian adventure for exactly that: to relax on the beach at a chic bagno, shop the uncrowded streets of amazing shops that didn't bother opening until four in the afternoon when people start returning from their bagnos and can enjoy a sunset aperitivo completely unbothered. I am happy to report we got everything we wished for, and even though it was my first time here, I am happy to share what I loved with you. Enjoy. xx

How to get to Forte dei Marmi

Forte dei Marmi is an easy drive down the autostrada from Florence (1.5 hours) or Milan (2 hours), where most of its clientele hail from. Both cities also have a direct train into Forte. Pisa is the closest airport with a short 40-minute drive but would require a regional connection for most US tourists regardless, so my advice is to fly into Milan or Florence, rent a car and make the easy drive like we did.

Much of the heart of Forte is car-restricted; instead, most hotels or vacation house rentals will provide you a cute bike to get around. The bike lanes are well-established and easy to use. I loved biking through town and our hotel provided a shuttle in addition to my preferred mode of transportation: la spiaggina (beach buggy). While visiting, it's unlikely you will need a car, but it's convenient for traveling into other regions of Tuscany as we did following our stay.

Where to Stay

Grand Hotel Imperiale // We chose to stay here because it felt like the entire package: steps from town, gorgeous ambiance and all the five-star amenities you'd want. The service was great and I loved the convenience of getting around on foot, via their cute bikes or a la spiaggina. The hotel itself has its own bagno, Remo, which is newer in comparison, but we ultimately chose another option. Our bagno reservation required a short beach buggy ride and it was one of the highlights of the trip. The concierge was super helpful with reservations and shaping our entire itinerary. I would most certainly stay here again next time.

Augustus Hotel and Resort // Set in a historic villa on expansive grounds with its own beach access and bagno, it's a true resort experience. It's perfect for any group, but I would have chosen it if traveling with kids. I heavily considered it for our stay; however, I ultimately preferred the walkability with Imperiale for this trip, as the property is located a bit further from town. We did, however, choose to rent a cabana at their storied bagno and truly enjoyed all its amenities, including the saltwater pool and Bambaissa restaurant.

Pensione America // A truly luxurious option, this five-star hotel remains swoony. Given its 16 suites and adults-only policy, the vibe seems more like a guest of a local than a hotel stay. A little further from town but with its own beautiful bagno, Assunta, I'd imagine it a paradise for visitors looking to truly retreat.

Villa Grey // A boutique stay in a darling part of town, just a tad off-center but close to the beach and housed in a cute pastel villa.

Where to Bagno

Forte dei Marmi is famous for its expansive sandy beaches adorned with tented cabanas, each belonging to a particular bagno (beach club). Regular visitors often return to the same tent every summer and therefore most front-row tents are reserved. But anyone can rent a tent for a day and enjoy all the bagno's amenities—changing rooms, showers, pools and on-site restaurants.

The beach doesn't require a bagno reservation, but it's a nice thing to have, especially for the full day. I recommend reserving your tent well in advance, especially during high season in August.

Augustus Beach Club // One of the oldest bagnos in Forte, we chose it since we were coming at the tail end of the season and wanted all the amenities in case of bad weather. Fortunately, the weather was spectacular and we met some of the nicest people during our stay in a second-row cabana—both families who've been frequenting Forte for years and had strong attachments to their respective cabanas.

Bagno Santa Maria // I came very close to choosing Santa Maria over Augustus and will most certainly check it out next time, as it appears to have the most fashion-forward following. I love the traditional green-stripe theme throughout and I can only imagine people-watching during high season. Their restaurant's spaghetti alla vongole also looks mouthwatering.

Alpemare // Perhaps the most glamorous option in Forte, this bagno is owned and operated by the Bocelli family and appears to have the upscale design to match. With bold turquoise accents and stunning seafood displays, it's an elegant option for a beachy afternoon. They also have a great restaurant people frequent for dinner alone and lots of fun events on site.

Where to Aperitivo

Maito dal 1960 // Recommended by our concierge for sunset drinks, Maito's beach club gets buzzier at night with a stunning restaurant and gourmet menu.

Pesce Terrazza // Perched above the beloved seafood spot Pesce Baracca, the views were perfect at sunset and my mom loved the collaboration with Veuve Clicquot (Sun Club) that seemed to be happening while we were there. They offer a seafood menu for dinner as well, with a bit more fun ambiance than the casual restaurant downstairs.

67 Sky Lounge Terrace at Hotel Principe // A true rooftop experience in this small town. Our concierge recommended it for spectacular city views.

Where to Eat

Caffetteria Il Giardino // The official cafe of Forte, this place with the pink facade and cute courtyard is a super reliable spot for coffee or lunch and is set right in the center of town.

Osteria del Mare // We really enjoyed our dinner here. My mom loves seafood and was impressed with the selection of fresh catches and salt-baked whole fish. I loved my lobster gnocchi and the entire vibe of the restaurant was wonderful. Sit outside on the terrace and enjoy the Tuscan bread.

Casa Mare // A chic lunch and dinner spot in the town square whose design I can't get over—the green stripes and elegant atmosphere are perfect. A perfect place to stop for lunch while shopping and the burrata e tartufo pizza lives up to the hype.

Pesce Baracca // A less formal setting for amazing seafood. This place has become a staple in Forte and the rooftop terrace is beautiful for sunset cocktails or a fancier seafood selection.

Gilda // An elegant bagno with a wonderful restaurant for lunch or dinner. Amazing seafood and a beautiful setting, especially at sunset.